My friend Abbie, the ELF in Jakarta, came to visit me in Gorontalo recently. I picked her up at the airport and then we set off on a sightseeing tour of the town. Over the span of three days Abbie got to see a lot of what makes Gorontalo such an original place to visit.
Our first stop was at the Exotic Café where we had lunch by the ocean and watched cows and goats stroll lazily up and down the beach.
Then we went up to the old Portuguese fortress in Limboto that is made from the shells of bird eggs, among other things.
We also passed by Gorontalo’s newest tourist attraction – The T-Shit Store! I seriously don’t know if they just forgot the ‘r’ or if the store is intentionally named that. In any event, I also pointed out this store to my students and told them that it should be a lesson to them on the importance of spelling!
Then we went on a road trip and passed through the little village of Pulubalu, which is known for its roadside stands of steaming towers of corn. Back home on Long Island there’s also a lot of fresh corn for sale at roadside vegetable stands, but it’s all raw. I think it’s pure genius to sell already cooked corn – it’s the perfect snack. America could actually learn a thing or two from the Gorontalese here.
We stopped at Bolihutuo Beach for a quick swim and a delicious lunch of ikan bakar and dabu dabu iris. I’m pleased to report that Abbie is now a big fan of fresh grilled fish with Gorontalo’s own tomato/onion/chili salsa. At the rumah makan we happened to meet some members of a Gorontalo motorcycle club called the Gorontalo Tigers. We duly posed for photos with one of the guys and his bike - and then some other guy jumped in the picture too.
Finally we reached our destination – the 100 year old Bajo stilt village called Torosiaje. Life in Torosiaje revolves around the water.
We met this man who showed us how he repairs nylon fishing nets by hand. The nets seem so fragile! I imagine he spends a lot of his time knotting them back together.
We also met this little girl who was excited to show off her swimming skills. I was particularly intrigued by her traditional goggles fashioned out of wood and glass.
Then we went snorkeling off a tiny island near Torosiaje. We both found some cool stuff to take pictures of underwater. Abbie (who borrowed my modern plastic goggles) really liked the blue starfish and I was thrilled to find some cute blue belly blennies, which are endemic to Tomini Bay.
Gorontalo is definitely one of a kind! I'm glad I could share the experience with Abbie.
This is a view of the sun setting over my backyard in Gorontalo:
It’s beautiful, right? It’s the kind of view that makes you think, “My God, I’m so lucky to live here.” It’s the kind of view that inspires people to build large glass windows and wooden decks perfect for a late afternoon cocktail, right? Well, not in Gorontalo. For reasons that are completely unfathomable to me, NOT ONE SINGLE HOUSE in my little row of houses next to this rice field has windows that look out onto this magnificent view. Instead, we have this:
This is the back of my house. Those little tiny windows you see are ventilation windows in the bathrooms and the kitchen. They’re up near the ceiling and the only way you’d see something out of them is if you stood on a chair or on the kitchen counter. In my bedroom, if I had an appropriately placed window instead of this WALL, I’d be able to just sit back in bed and watch these spectacular sunsets unfold as if on a giant movie screen. Instead, my bedroom window looks out on to the neighbor’s house about a meter away. Who designed this housing complex?! Why on earth would they think people would rather stare at their neighbor’s wall than at a beautiful sunset?
And don’t even get me started on the fact that I didn’t even discover these beautiful sunsets in my backyard until two months ago. Before that, the little alleyway between my house and my neighbor’s had been so chock full of garbage and random building supplies that I didn’t even have direct access to the back of my house. And then one day all of that just mysteriously disappeared. And I was left gaping with astonishment at this absolutely stunning sunset.
This incident can also be seen as a metaphor for my entire stay in Gorontalo. When I first arrived, I saw the obstacles; I smelled the burning garbage and I longed for things I didn’t have like fast internet, hot showers and a decent place to get pizza. And now things are different. Now I see the sunsets.
Sulawesi is an amazing island and I’d like to point out that three of the coolest and most unusual places to visit all start with the letter T. My personal trio of “must see” places on Sulawesi include the Bajo stilt village of Torosiaje, the diving paradise of the Togean Islands and now Tana Toraja, a cluster of small, traditional villages in South Sulawesi known for their elaborate funerals. Nestled high in the cool mountains, surrounded by gorgeous rice paddies, and inhabited by people who believe in Christianity and polytheistic animism, Tana Toraja distinguishes itself from most other areas in Indonesia. It’s an absolutely fascinating place to visit.
Beautiful scenery in Tana Toraja
I flew down to Makassar to meet up with two other ELFs – Courtney and Ashleigh – and together we set off on what was supposed to be an 8 hour bus ride to Tana Toraja. But the bus we were originally in was broken so we all climbed out again and hung around the bus terminal for an extra hour waiting for a replacement bus. Once we got ourselves reasonably settled in on the new bus, we learned that the road to Tana Toraja was under construction (of course!). All in all, our trip took 11 hours instead of 8.
Early the next morning we got up early to have a lovely banana pancake breakfast on the veranda of our traditional tongkonan-style cottage. Over mugs of steaming hot Torajan coffee, we chatted and joked around with the hotel guy who had picked us up from the bus station the night before and got us settled in our rooms. We mentioned we were looking to hire a car and guide for the day to take us around the villages and he promptly offered his services.
Fery proved to be a good choice because, being Torajan himself, he knew the area well but he had also lived in many other places in Indonesia and had a good sense of humor. He was great! We piled into a van driven by his friend Thomas and promptly hit the road singing and joking to keep ourselves entertained. Fery mentioned there was a funeral in progress so we stopped at a small toko along the way to buy a carton of cigarettes to give the family as a gift for allowing us to attend the funeral, as is the custom. We milled around the store buying donuts, water and a few other things, but somehow managed to forget what we originally went in for – the cigarettes!
The first touristy stop of the day for our merry troop was the village of Lemo. The Torajans traditionally bury their dead in specially hollowed out cliff caves. The coffins are kept deep inside the caves while the entrances are marked with lifelike wooden effigies known as tau tau.
Cliff graves and effigies at Lemo
A woodcarver at work
Our next stop was the cave in Londa. Here we hired a guide with a gas lamp to take us deep inside a cave to see the coffins. It felt like something out of an Indiana Jones movie.
Exploring the cave in Londa
Then we headed to La’bo where we expected to attend a funeral, but it turned out to be a day of rest for the family. (Funerals typically last for five days, so I guess a day of rest is very welcomed!) But we still got to look around. Apparently, massive cock fights are staged on the day of rest and we watched a succession of men with their …uh…cocks walk by us on their way to a fight as we sat sipping coffee and tea while waiting out a sudden downpour. We also got to take in the scenery, which included this tall structure where the coffin is held for the duration of the funeral until the body is brought to the caves. Interestingly, these structures are built by hand and then burned as firewood after the funeral. We also learned that the color red is used for males and black for females. So, this was a funeral for a male.
Funeral scene in La'bo
The Toraja people are constantly in a state of getting ready for funerals. Not only are they busy building these elaborate structures, but families also have to wait to bury their dead until they have enough money to buy the required number of buffaloes to sacrifice. And have you ever looked into purchasing a buffalo? They are expensive! In some cases, one buffalo costs the same as a small car, several thousand dollars. And this is a country where university lecturers only earn about $200 a month. As a result, bodies are kept in the family home for YEARS until the family is ready to stage a funeral.
The last stop of the day was at Ke’te Kesu where we visited some traditional tongkonan houses with their famous curving roofs and pillars of buffalo horns. The horns attached to the houses are status symbols – the more horns you have, the higher the status of the family, which is no wonder considering the cost. We were also able to climb up the inside of one and see the simple area used for sleeping and cooking. Actually, someone was asleep in the back room of the house we visited but Fery told us not to worry about it!
Traditional houses in Ke'te Kesu
Court, Ash and I only visited a handful of the more touristy villages but there are many others. In some of the more remote villages it’s even possible to stay overnight in one of the traditional tongkonan houses. My ETAs also highly recommended a white water rafting trip in the area. While one day is enough to get a feel for the place, it definitely leaves you itching for more. We never even actually saw a funeral, which is what Tana Toraja is most famous for. That said, it was an extremely satisfying trip and I will miss my two travel buddies immensely. Thanks for the laughs, ladies!
This year I had four ETAs – Sarah and Alexa in Limboto and Anna and Erika in Manado. All four of them are amazing young women and we’ve had many good times together. I can’t believe they’re gone! They’ve left Sulawesi for bigger and better things while I’m still here wrapping up the school year (and catching up on my blogging!). So, I just wanted to write a post to all of them as a tribute and to thank them for being so awesome and for turning into such great friends.
I will never forget one particular night early in the year when Anna and Erika had driven down from Manado for the weekend. Alexa, unfortunately, was sick but Sarah, Anna, Erika and I went out on the town to do a little Gorontalo sightseeing and shopping. We also wanted to get Alexa something to cheer her up. And you know what we ended up getting? HOUSE DRESSES! Many women in Sulawesi go about their daily activities wearing these house dresses and although they may not exactly be fashion statements, they are extremely comfortable and suitable for the hot weather here. So we each selected one for ourselves and then picked out one for Alexa. When we got back to Sarah and Alexa’s house that evening we excitedly changed into our new house dresses to surprise Alexa when she got up from her nap. She looked at us puzzled, “Whaaa??” And then we unveiled her present! We twirled around the house in our new house dresses and then settled in for the night. The power went out so we spent the rest of the night playing Apples to Apples by light of the emergency lantern, eating manggis (mangosteen in English) and sitting around in our house dresses.
Besides being all around fun people to hang out with, three of my ETAs are also divers! Anna got certified last summer before moving to Indonesia, just like me. Sarah and Alexa got certified in March and, as you know, we’ve spent the past few months doing as much diving as possible. All four of us share great memories of diving together in Gorontalo and the Togean Islands. At the end of May after the dive season in Gorontalo had ended, I traveled up to Manado for a final weekend of diving with Anna. On the boat on the way out to Bunaken we were treated to the most fabulous display of leaping bottlenose dolphins. Good times.
Overall, I saw Sarah and Alexa a lot more than I did Anna or Erika because they lived nearby. We ate out in town, went to the salon to get our hair and nails done and texted often. We also shared many fun dinners at their place in Limboto and mine in ‘Kota’; I’ll always remember the night we made peanut butter cookies in my toaster oven with a mix that I got in a care package. Alexa even described me once in her blog as their big sister, mentor and best friend. I can’t even explain how much that sentiment moved me. I miss and love you guys!! Gorontalo isn’t the same without you.
With Alexa and Sarah at Bolihutuo Beach, Gorontalo
